Posted by: Editor on Feb 21, 2005 – 10:27 AM
exoticlocations Grand Bahama Island, Bahamas – In 1513, Ponce de Leon stumbled upon this island in his quest for the legendary Fountain of Youth. The Spanish explorer’s search for age-defying waters proved futile but, almost 500 years later, visitors here will find that Grand Bahama Island possesses the power to rejuvenate thanks to a booming tourism industry.
Only a 35-minute puddle jump from Miami, the island and its main gateways, Freeport and Lucaya, serve up nice hotels, a plethora of shops and activities and a laid-back atmosphere and friendly people, not to mention the warm weather and clear skies that prevailed during my recent stay.
My room at the Westin at Our Lucaya Beach and Golf Resort was cheerfully decorated in lime green, blue and white, and boasted a signature “Heavenly” bed that lived up to its name. Compared to the snow and slush I left behind in Boston, the view from my balcony seemed like a mirage: Multiple serpentine pools twisted and turned through the sprawling, palm tree-lined grounds. Beyond that gleamed the ocean.
One could easily spend a week without leaving the 377-acre resort, which combines the Westin and a Sheraton property. The accommodating staff was clearly skilled in the art of hospitality and directed guests to numerous amenities and activities. Guests can play the slots at the Isle of Capri Casino, take a golf clinic and dine at one of the property’s 14 restaurants and cafes. Parents can drop the youngsters at Camp Lucaya, where they can participate in beach olympics and supervised trips down a waterslide. I could have spent my whole trip reading by one of the quieter pools or snoozing in a semi-submerged loungechair.
Our Lucaya also has the requisite swim-up bar and the casual Prop Club, where those in search of nightlife can throw back a few Kaliks, a Bahamian beer named for the sound of cowbells, and indulge in dancing and drunken karaoke.
It was pleasing to discover Our Lucaya infuses many of its offerings with Bahamian flavor: Health nuts, for example, can take a class that blends classical ballet exercises with Caribbean music. I was tempted to immerse myself in the Senses Spa’s “Bahamian Wrapsody,” an exfoliating body wrap featuring a few special ingredients – sugar and Bahamian rum, available in mango, banana, pineapple and coconut flavors – until I learned that eating the wrap was not an option.
But visitors need to venture from the resort to get a better sense of Bahamian life. Even the touristy Port Lucaya shopping complex and Marina, across the street from the Westin, provided insight. Here short, brightly colored one-story shops with friendly shopkeepers sell everything from sundresses and swimwear to jewelry and perfume. Small eateries with outdoor patios serve food from around the world – Chinese, Greek, Italian – and the cost of a quick lunch at many of the places is about what you would pay for a bottle of water and a croissant at the resort.
Port Lucaya’s straw market is a bargain souvenir hunter’s paradise. Bahamian straw weavers sit on low plastic stools outside their booths and create bags, slippers, bowls and jewelry boxes. Every stall also overflows with touristy trinkets: Bahamas-emblazoned T-shirts, shot glasses, mugs, shell jewelry and more. As I strolled through the market, the women invited me to browse and bargain: “Hello, pretty lady. Would you like to take a look inside?”
On weekend nights, Count Basie Square, at the center of Port Lucaya, comes alive as locals and vacationers, ranging from families with children to college students, hang out at the open air bars and watch the junkanoo performances. Dressed in matching flashy costumes, the performers sing and dance to upbeat Bahamian music. The traditional acts are interspersed with other entertainers, such as a flaming limbo roller skater. It’s good kitschy fun.
To escape the tourist crowds, check out the offerings of Kayak Nature Tours (242-373-2485; www.grandbahamanaturetours.com).
On a half-hour ride to Lucayan National Park, tour guide Ben Rose, a weathered, mild-mannered older gentleman who has lived on the island since 1957, treated us to a brief history lesson. Seemingly an encyclopedia of flora, fauna and all things Grand Bahama Island, Rose made the half-hour trip fly by, with his stories of the Lucayan Indians who originally inhabited the island and the pirates and bootleggers who came later.
Lucayan National Park sits just off the main road, in a landscape lined with towering Caribbean pines. A short trek over a rocky trail and a climb down a spiral staircase led us into a cave marking the entrance into Lucayan National Park’s underwater cave system. Measuring more than 6 miles, the underwater labyrinth is one the largest in the world.
Nearby, Gold Rock Beach ranks as a must-visit destination on Grand Bahama Island. The soft, clean white sand and clear blue water are the antitheses of any northeastern U.S. beach. Our tour included an hour on the beach, where we could bob in the gentle waves or sunbathe on the shore.
Following our beach visit, we paired off and took a 2-mile kayak trip through the park’s mangroves. The trees’ gnarled, intertwined branches shape the river, making it twist and turn. As the mangroves grew closer together, the path narrowed and navigating the kayak became pleasantly challenging.
To top off a day spent in the “real” Bahamas, head to Eight Mile Rock after sunset. The drive from Our Lucaya takes about a half-hour, and is worth the trip.
The small, rustic eateries at Eight Mile Rock exude warmth and the friendly atmosphere of the place is contagious. At the rocky beach strip, Bahamians spend time talking and dancing with old friends and making new ones.
I savored the spicy steamed conch, a signature Bahamian dish, watched the locals dance and listened to the waves crashing over the rocky shore. The energy of the place was intoxicating – and probably helped along with a few extra-strong Bahama Mamas.
On Grand Bahama Island, I found enough rejuvenating energy to see me through whatever the rest of the Boston winter will bring. Too bad Ponce de Leon couldn’t see what he missed.
If you go
Getting there: US Airways offers winter roundtrip flights connecting through Charlotte, N.C., starting from $211. Go to www.usairways.com, or call 800-622-1015. American Airlines has roundtrip flights connecting through Miami,starting from $233. Go to www.aa.com, or call 800-433-7300.
Staying there: Our Lucaya Beach and Golf Resort Westin (800-WESTIN-1) has winter rates starting at $229; the adjacent Sheraton (800-323-3535) has rates from $169. For more information, go to www.ourlucaya.com, or call 877-OUR-LUCAYA.
By Heather V. Eng
February 20, 2005
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